First Family Holiday to India
- Katy Rafiai
- Sep 19
- 17 min read
Updated: Oct 7
When Amir and I were younger and just starting out, we saved for 2 years to go travelling and goodness we needed it. We really needed it.
I was struggling with the dynamics of a freshly fractured home life which had left me worn out and bruised, and Amir had never travelled anywhere outside of a resort holiday. He'd been chucked out of his family home from a young age and had been working since he was 17. We needed a break and we needed to see something else other than our local town.
We needed to get away and we needed somewhere that would heal us.
Why India?
I'd been dreaming about India for years. I had bought a Lonely Planet book about 5 years prior and had spent years imaging the colours, the smells, the food, the people. I had watched all the documentaries and seen how the beauty and chaos of India collide, and I felt like this was the place that could give us the experiences we needed.
So we booked flights and did a 2 1/2 month stint. Travelling into India overland from Nepal, we spent the next few months travelling round the north and then down to the South.
Nothing really prepares you for India, it hits you like 10 trains going in all different directions and there you are, just stood in the middle of it all.
The healing came from the heat, the sweat, the tiredness, the food, the people and the madness of it all. It is a place that never leaves you and we knew that one day we would need to go back.
Fast forward 11 years later and we now have a 9 year old and 5 year old. We were worn out from work and growing businesses. Bored with our routine and once again in need of an adventure. It was the 6 weeks holiday and we had no plans to go away.
I was fed up with constantly working and finally I'd had enough. It was time to book flights to India and this time, we'd be taking the kids. This time we would go for 3 weeks - the longest holiday the kids had ever had.
This is Not a Cheap Backpacking Blog!
Now one thing about going to India is that you can do it as cheap or as expensive as you want. The most expensive thing you have to pay out for is the flights, but once you've paid out for those, the budget you set is completely up to you. We used British Airways points, so our flights were pretty reasonable.
I want to mention here, that this is not a cheap backpacking blog.
We didn't scrape by in hostels or 2nd class travel this time around, we had suitcases not rucksacks and this time we actually had some money. This was a 3 week holiday with the kids, where we combined site seeing and a holiday, to introduce the kids to a new culture but also get the break we needed to come back to work and life.
So this itinerary would be great for a first holiday to India.
What We Learnt from Travelling India the First Time
Having travelled India as a couple 11 years ago, there were a few things we had learnt and needed to put in place this time around;
Splurge on accommodation! Traveling in India is an adventure but you'll definitely want a haven to escape the lively (and chaotic) energy, especially with kids. A few tips;
During our first trip to Mumbai, Amir and I met a woman staying at the stunning Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (def check this out). She said that experiencing the city's chaos and then coming back to relax by the hotel pool was the ultimate combination. We were spending £8 a night on disgusting rooms at the time, so we always dreamed of going back and doing it this same way. The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is such an experience - if you can afford it - do it!
In India, spending £100 a night can land you a stunning hotel (especially when compared to places like London), so aim to spend at least £70+ per night to find a fabulous spot with a pool that's safe and delightful for the kids. You don't want to be worrying about the kids when you get back to the hotel, you want somewhere where they can run around and you can relax.
Indian hospitality is second to none, so treat yourself to some luxury and soak it all in!
Safety is important - Having had more than one situation when I had been grabbed on trains, we knew we wanted to be in places that would offer complete safety for the kids. This meant secure, gated hotels and private travel where we could. Now the train system in India is absolutely amazing, Amir and I had travelled 3rd/2nd class everywhere to save the pennies, but this time, the travel would need to be a bit more thought out. I recommend that any sleeper trains you get with kids should be first class (we're talking holiday vibes, not backpacking), and ideally we wanted to hire a car with a driver.
Have a clear plan - India is chaotic, and it can make you crazy if you don't have a clear plan. Know where you want to go, have your transport sorted. You don't want to be negotiating for tuktuks in the sweltering heat with kids, whilst you're trying to make sure no one gets run over. We went to Chandni Chowk market with the kids and I wish I had got a tour guide to take us round. It all worked out and we had some lovely experiences, but having a clear plan will make you so much more at ease.
Expect to pay more - You're a tourist and will be treated as such. Prices will be raised purely because you're a tourist. This can feel dishonest at times, but negotiate, be friendly and relax into it. A lot of the stress we experienced when we travelled as a couple, was the constant negotiating, especially when it came to travel. This time around we were lucky because India now has Uber - this is a game changer!! As it's regulated travel prices and everyone is paying the same. Take advantage of this - it is amazing.
Say no to photos if you don't feel comfortable - When Amir and I were travelling together, I stood out as the bright white face covered in freckles. This meant that people wanted to regularly take my photo - a lot. I would say yes most of the time, but now we have kids, I don't want their photos taken by strangers, so politely say no thank you.
Where to go in India with Kids...
We knew from travelling between the north and the south, that the easiest place to take the kids first time around would be the South. Now we had a number of reasons for this, that I'm sure not everyone will agree with, but I will share here and hope for no backlash!
It's on the coastline
We loved the food, which was filled with coconut flavours and sea food. (you'll find that every state in India has a different style of food)
We felt the people were more laid back - there's even a beachy vibe even in the way people walk that is just so lovely to be around.
The literacy rate is higher - Kerala has the highest literacy rate in India. When we travelled as a couple, we felt that this translated in the way people treated others. (I'm sure this will be debated but this was our experience)
It's absolutely beautiful - full of lush green trees and back waters.
Having weighed up Goa and Kerala, we settled on a family trip to Kerala to experience the back waters, Fort Kochi, spice and tea plantations, an elephant sanctuary and the hills of Thekkady. Below - you'll see our full itinerary.
Our Itinerary
Day 1 - Fly to Delhi
Day 2 - Markets in Delhi - We took the kids to Chandni Chowlk Market - in hindsight, I wish we had got a tour guide to take us, as it was pretty hectic. We got the Kids some Indian Outfits and gave them a taste of a busy Indian atmosphere. Next time I would combine this with a less hectic market to show them some of the glamour of Delhi too. Make sure you get an Indian Sim card for your phone ASAP, this will help when needing to organise an Ubers - your roaming will let you down so get this sorted asap.
Day 3 - Taj Mahal - Private Car there and back - It's a long busy day, so be prepared. Make sure you get a private tour sorted. Speak to your hotel or find one online. It's 100% worth it. You can get the train or a private car. We did a private car. Pack activities and pillows for the kids as it a long journey each way. The Taj Mahal is in Agra, which is hustle central, you'll see how busy and hectic it is, a tour guide will remove any unnecessary distractions and you will be mostly left alone. This was a good opportunity for the kids to wear their Indian outfits and get some nice pictures.
Day 4 - Pool Day in Delhi Hotel. After the long day at the Taj Mahal you will need this break. We had a lovely lazy day, met a lovely Indian family at the pool and exchanged life stories, as you do!
Day 5 - Early Morning Flight from Delhi to Kochi (3 hour flight), Uber from Kochi Airport to Kumarakom Lake Resort (just over 2 hours). This was a cheap domestic flight. It was an early one, which was tough with the kids. To be honest, I wish we had sorted a better flight time, so take this into consideration. It's a long day of travel so take it easy, drink lots of water and be good to yourselves. The car journey to the resort is beautiful and was an easy 2 hours looking out the window.
Day 5 - Day 12 - 7 days at the Kumarakom Lake Resort (the resort where King Charles once stayed - they even have a villa named after him). We booked this based on a recommendation from a friend and I'm so pleased we did. It was perfect.
A few tips for you;
The hotel organise a boat tour every night which is just beautiful - take advantage of this and enjoy!
You have free chia and Indian snacks every afternoon which is a great routine for the kids and stops unnecessary spending on lunch. The sugary chai teas poured from a huge height is an experience all of its own. The kids loved it!
We got a meandering pool villa, which I would 100% recommend. The kids were out in the pool first thing in the morning and last thing at night. The bathroom is outside which make for an amazing tropical experience (make sure you wear mosquitoes bands at all times - I even had one on my ankle).
Booking directly with the hotel website will give you a discount. We got every 3rd night free, which really helped the cost.
Other activities included a trip to the Ayurvedic Medical Centre up the road (definitely worth doing), we got a full list of treatments and it was much cheaper than the hotel. The kids even had massages and treatments and we all came back super relaxed. The name of the centre we used was - Amritha Ayurveda Kumarakom, which organised transport there and back for us. The doctors were really kind and assess you before hand. Be warned - you will have to get naked except for tiny paper knickers but it's nearly pitch black in the room so no one's looking. Go for the complete package - the sauna box, the heated buttermilk on your forehead - all of it is incredible and these treatments date back over 5000 years old, so take advantage of being here! I looked them up on youtube before we went, which will give you a great idea on what to expect.
I organised a private boat tour of the backwaters. I used a company called Wonderwerk via Instagram. They do cooking classes and tours. The boat tour we had was so relaxing. It stopped at various points to teach the kids how to make rope from coconut fibres, roofs from palm leaves. They cooked for us and made beautiful melon juices for us all. They are really trying to make a good little business here and it was a great experience that they are running professionally. The lady who runs the kitchen is a wonderful cook and I could learn so much from her! I would check these out or have a look around. Booking away from the hotel will keep the price down and you'll get a new experience.
Schedule pottery making at the hotel, this is a fab experience for the kids. They can also watch coconut oil being made.
Get the kids involved in fishing!
Do late night swimming at the infinity pool - it is a magical experience watching the sun set.
See if you can get your hands on some Toddy - a traditional alcoholic drink made from coconut palm sap. It smells disgusting but my husband loved the novelty of it and shared it with other guests in the hotel, which gave everyone a good round of the giggles. Our taxi driver ordered some for us from the local cafe. Make sure you don't close the lid on the bottle fully as it's still fermenting and you don't want it to burst open.
Enjoy the evening music and get stuck in - We were up and dancing with the kids. It was great fun, so get involved and enjoy yourselves - you're on holiday!
Day 13 - The relaxing part of the holiday was over and now it was time for some more exploring. We got a Private Car to Thekkady - using Uber. This was a 3-4 hour drive up into the mountains of Kerala. We chose Thekkady, as we wanted the kids to have an Elephant experience and I had found an Elephant sanctuary here. We were so sad to say goodbye to the Lake Resort as it had been an amazing break for us - we all can't wait to go back.
Day 14 - Private Taxi tour around Thekkady - Elephant Sanctuary Visit, Spice Plantation Tour and Bee Farm. We then went to a Kathakali and Kalaripayattu (martial art) show that evening. The kids absolutely loved this and still talk about it today. It was a packed day but an amazing one with so many amazing experiences. We asked our Taxi Driver to take us to a local Cafe for Lunch. This was an incredible experience eating with the locals, the owner took such good care of us and treated our kids with such kindness.
Some tips for you;
Bring spare clothes for the kids - they will get wet with the Elephants. I wouldn't say this was a sanctuary - more of a Zoo like experience. The kids got to ride on the elephants, wash them and feed them. They will never, ever forget it. It was incredible. It's run very professionally and is a top tourist destination for Indian families who are all enjoying themselves and taking pictures. However, I'm not sure how much sanctuary it is, but I'm pleased we did it.
Pay for your taxi drivers lunch and make sure you tip.
Our hotel in Thekkady was a dry hotel - so no alcohol at all, I didn't realise when booking (not that we drink a lot). If you want a couple of beers for your room, ask your taxi driver to sort it out for you, as he will need to go to a special government regulated place to buy some.
Buy some spices at the spices plantation - we went to the Green Park Spice plantation. It's run really well and I still use all the nutmeg I bought. The tour guides aren't pushy and are really knowledgeable - they were great with the kids.
Don't skip the bee farm. It's free but you'll want to buy honey afterwards, so bring cash.
Bring tissues and wipes.
Day 15 - Rest day - Day by the pool and park with the Kids. We went to a park called Rose Park in Thekkady which the kids loved. You can buy lots of activities and the kids didn't want to leave. My son particularly liked the game where you have to shoot a rifle!
Day 16 - Uber Ride - Back to Kochi (this was a long one - 4.5 hours in the car). Our taxi driver stopped off at various points and we stocked up on street snacks and chais which were super tasty and spicy! We stayed at the Forte Kochi Hotel which is partnered with the Lake Resort. The aesthetic of this place is just beautiful - it's mixed with Portugese design and all the rooms are just stunning with yellow and orange interiors. Here we experienced some monsoon weather and the kids loved swimming in the pool whilst the rain was pouring! It's a small boutique hotel, but it's absolutely gorgeous.
Day 17 - Tuktuk Tour of Kochi - The Chinese Fishing Nets, Temples, Churches and Synagogue in Jew Town. Our tuktuk driver was really down to earth and even let my son sit in the front and drive the tuktuk - not sure how legal that is but he had a blast! Haha!
Day 18 - Rest day, packing and present buying before flying to Mumbai. If you're exhausted with negotiating, don't worry you can buy souvenirs at the airport, which I found to be cheaper than most shops - but try and buy at the independent shops if you can.
Day 19 - Flight to Mumbai - when we landed in Mumbai we rested in the hotel as the kids were really tired. We wanted to explore the city but the kids were exhausted so we enjoyed the activities and the pool in the hotel. We stayed at the Taj Santacruz right by the airport. This was the perfect hotel to end our journey in. Beautiful views of the airplanes, gorgeous rooms, room service and amazing hospitality. They organised a car to take us to the airport the next morning, and I felt like we were superstars with the treatment we received. The service was delightful.
Day 20 - Flight Home to London
So that's a wrap, our first family trip to India. A cultural experience mixed in with the luxury of a much needed holiday. We returned rested, relaxed and grateful.
Now I've included the name of our hotel in Kumarakom in this blog, but there are lots of great hotels in Kerala so have a look around.
Some tips for you before I round off this blog;
Get an Indian Sim card so you can order an Uber anywhere. Your reception will be patchy if you're roaming, so get an Indian Sim Card sorted straight away. You can buy these online.
Download the Uber app - this was our life line!
The AC in the private taxis will be a life saver for long journeys, but order tuktuks for short journeys, you'll get the wind in your hair and that will be a lovely break from the heat.
If you make friends with your Uber driver, hire them for the day.
Always have bottled water with you.
Book hotels that are securely gated.
My husband used google translate to talk to our taxi drivers - it was a fun way to build rapport and trust.
Listen to the kids - tired kids will make the holiday stressful. You might not be able to fit everything in - that's ok.
Have cash on you for tipping and tip generously - the exchange rate means you can be generous when tipping. We really enjoyed being about to tip people. At the end of our stay we got out £50 and tipped staff generously. Don't forget the people who clean and tidy your rooms.
We travelled in August and the monsoon weather wasn't really an issue at all. The rain came and went and brought relief to the humidity, so don't let this put you off. It was sunny and hot most of the time. You don't need to have ponchos on you at all times.
Get crocs for the kids - you'll see all the Indian children wearing them - they know what they're doing! Crocs are perfect for India.
Pay for tours - don't do everything yourself. Get a tour guide and enjoy being shown around. It will stop you being pestered.
Be kind to tuktuk drivers - these guys are born hustlers. They are working hard to earn for their families. They might be annoyingly persistent at times, but be kind. You're going to be conned a bit - let it go.
I was worried about the flight with the kids - 9 hours! But honestly, it was the easiest flight we've ever done. The inhouse entertainment on the flight and the constant stream of food make it easier than a 4 hour flight to Turkey! So don't let that put you off.
It's not your average holiday. You are going to meet very different people when holidaying in India than you will in Turkey. I find this to be one of the perks when travelling here. Be modest and respectful.
Drink the Chai Tea! Don't skip on this! Enjoy a fresh chai every morning - even the kids got involved. By the end of the holiday we were all addicted to this delicious, fragrant milky drink.
Have a plan when leaving the hotel - The heat in India is exhausting. Mix this in with kids who are tired and hungry and you have a recipe for disaster. Don't walk around aimlessly as you will end up stressed and hot. Have a plan and get a tuktuk, especially if its the middle of the day. Break up the heat with regular shop or coffee breaks. The AC will be a welcome reset.
Holiday in the South - if it's your first family holiday to India, I would definitely look at holidaying in the South. It is the perfect mix of a relaxing holiday and a cultural experience.
Wine is expensive - If you're a big wine drinker, be prepared to pay for it. This is apparently due to the taxes and import duties which can be as much as 150%. So be aware that the price of a meal will double with the addition of any wine and that is hard to swallow. We didn't really drink, as we couldn't justify the cost of it compared to the food, but we did treat ourselves to the odd glass of wine. If you're expecting an all inclusive wine drinking holiday, India isn't the place for you. I would buy a bottle of something at duty free and treat yourself back at your room.
Read a book that will transport you into India;
Shantaram is a great one - by Gregory David Roberts (I read this when we first travelled around India and couldn't put it down)
The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy - set in Kerala, so a great one for this itinerary
White Tiger by Aravind Adiga - Made into a movie for you to enjoy afterwards.
Make sure you get your visas and injections sorted!
What we didn't get round to doing...
As with most holidays, there was stuff that we didn't get round to doing as we had to trim the itinerary. We wanted to explore the tea plantations in Munnar and the Periyar Wildlife park in Thekkady where you can do a jeep safari and bamboo rafting, but we had to think about the kids and the extra car journeys.
The Periyar Wildlife Park is about 35 minutes from Thekkady, so I would definitely look into this. Check out the ages restrictions on the bamboo rafting as my son was too young for this so we didn't think it was worth it in the end. This could be a fun day out in Thekkady if you have time for it. The Jeep Safaris are expensive so allow for this in your budget. Check out the website for a full list of activities as you can do hiking too.
Munnar Tea Plantations - I really wanted to do this but I couldn't put the kids through the car journey, so this was part of the trip that we trimmed off. We settled with the spice plantations in Thekkady and a small tea plantation. However I have heard amazing things about Munnar and would love to do this when we next go back.
Train Journey - we didn't get to do a train journey with the kids. I would love to do this next time to give them another cultural experience. The train systems in India are amazing and can be booked online. I didn't want the extra stress this time around, but would absolutely do this next time.
Homestay - Would love to give this a try next time. We stayed with 2 Indian families when Amir and I travelled by ourselves. We ended up at an Indian Wedding which was such a great fun. I would love to give this a try with the kids next time.
So that's it from me! I've probably got loads more I can share but I'm been writing this for 3 hours, so I will stop there! If you have any questions please put them in the comments and I will do my best to answer them for you.
Some quick tips for packing before I finish;
Ponchos for the monsoon rain - kids loved being in these when the rain was pouring.
Mosquito cream, spray and bands - you're going to need all of these!
Anti-histamines for the humidity and any bites you get.
Imodium (just in case!)
Hair wax to stop the frizz from the humidity
Shawl for the evening breeze
Activities for the kids - pads, pens etc for the dinner table. Was a life saver for meals out.
Battery pack for phone, in case of battery dying.
Mini first aid kid - I bought one on amazon.
Money belt.
Sun cream.
Indian Plug Adaptor x2
Torch - we had a little camp light that the kids brought to walk back to the room with. They also ran around the hotel whilst we were eating, so the torch was good fun for them. I would get a small torch for each of your kids.
Hand sanitiser
Wet Wipes and tissues.
Crocs for the kids
Get your indian sim card sorted!
I hope that helps! I would have loved some of these tips before we travelled and I have included some photos which I hope you enjoy
We also make a family holiday video every time we go away, so I will post that here for you to look at and laugh at! Happy travels!
If you want a full list and names of the exact places we went - please comment below and I can send across to you.
Katy xxx
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